Cosmetics: Trick or Treat?

AHJ_ah10050 Inventory of the Toni Stabile papers, 1933-1999 Stabile (Toni) papers Processed by Ben Goldman University of Wyoming. American Heritage Center.

American Heritage Center Dept. 3924, 1000 E. University Avenue University of Wyoming Laramie, WY 82071 Phone: 307.766.2574 Fax:307.766.5511 Email:ahcref@uwyo.edu URL:http://ahc.uwyo.edu/

2011

University of Wyoming

Finding aid encoded by Ben Goldman June 2011 Finding aid is in English Collection Summary Stabile, Toni Toni Stabile papers 1933-1999 10050 25.05 cubic ft. (55 boxes) University of Wyoming. American Heritage Center. English Toni Stabile was an American freelance writer and investigative journalist best known for her writings on the cosmetic industry and cosmetic safety. This collection includes correspondence, manuscripts, and research files from the author. Biography of Toni Stabile

Toni Stabile (Antoinette D.), born and raised in New York, is the author of three books, a free-lance writer, and an investigative journalist. She is a well-known advocate of cosmetic safety, and has been dubbed "the Ralph Nader of the cosmetics industry".

She received an A.B. in journalism from the University of Kentucky and did graduate work at Columbia University. Her involvement with cosmetics began when she was an undergraduate writing a weekly fashion and beauty column. In the 1950's she began her own independent research on the validity of cosmetic claims.

Her book, Cosmetics: Trick or Treat? (1966) prompted the first congressional hearings on cosmetic safety in over 20 years. It and the updated editions, Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game (1973, 1979), paved the way for cosmetic ingredient listing on labels and inspired regulatory and industry reforms. She testified as an expert witness before U.S. House and Senate committee hearings on product safety bills in 1971, 1972, and 1974. She received the Franny Award for Service to the Consumer from WPIX TV in 1974.

Toni Stabile's third book, Everything You Want to Know About Cosmetics, was published in 1984. Her articles have appeared in Nation, Redbook, The Saturday Evening Post, Today's Health, Travel Agent, and other national and international magazines.

Scope and Content

The Toni Stabile papers, 1933-1987, include correspondence, drafts of manuscripts, research and promotional material for her books, annotated copies of her books, published articles, documents related to a lawsuit, and audio/visual materials. The collection provides evidence of the failure of both the cosmetic industry and the government agencies charged with consumer protection to safeguard the consumer from products containing hazardous and potentially harmful substances.

While there are manuscripts for many of Stabile's articles, the bulk of the manuscript material are drafts, galleys, and corrections to Stabile's three books: Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game, Cosmetics: Trick of Treat?, and Everything You Want to Know About Cosmetics.

The research files, 1933-1989, contain valuable information on the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, drug and cosmetic labeling regulations, congressional hearings on product safety, injuries caused by cosmetics, the activities of the Toiletry Goods Association, Inc. (now the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc.), cosmetic marketing strategies, deceptive or misleading product claims and the functioning of the Federal Drug Administration, The Federal Trade Commission, and the Consumer Protection Agency.

The correspondence, 1959-1987, provides information on how Toni Stabile researched cosmetic safety, her professional activities, the problems associated with getting a manuscript published, and how books are promoted.

The collection also contains some personal correspondence and information on Toni Stabile’s early career and writings, biographical information, documents regarding the lawsuit initiated by Toni Stabile against Chesebrough-Pond’s for unauthorized use of her Reader’s Digest article “The Outrageous Cost of Facial Beauty,” and many audio and video tapes of interviews and promotional appearances regarding cosmetic cost and safety issues.

Access Restrictions

There are no access restrictions on the materials for research purposes, and the collection is open to the public.

Copyrights are retained by donor. The researcher assumes full responsibility for observing all copyright, property, and libel laws as they apply.

Related Materials

There are no other known archival collections related to Toni Stabile.

Acquisition Information

The Toni Stabile papers, 1933-1989, were given to the American Heritage Center by Toni Stabile in six shipments, one in 1980, three in 1985, one in 1989 and one in 1990. An addition to the collection was received from Toni Stabile in three shipments in 1992 and 1999.

Processing Information

The collection was processed by Ben Goldman in June 2011.

Preferred Citation

Item Description, Box Number, Folder Number, Collection Name, Collection Number, American Heritage Center, University of Wyoming.

Existence and Location of Copies

Digital reproductions of select material from this collection are available at http://digitalcollections.uwyo.edu:8180/luna/servlet/uwydbuwy~86~86.

Access Terms Cosmetics industry--United States. Cosmetics--Safety measures. Consumer protection--United States. Investigative reporting. Journalists Women -- Health and hygiene -- United States. Arts, Humanities, and Social Sciences Journalism Women Container List Series I. Correspondence 1938-1992

Contains correspondence between Toni Stabile and government officials, medical and cosmetic trade associations, associates, editors, publishers, and attorneys regarding her research, personal appearances, and the publication and promotion of her books and other writings.

42 1 Appearances and Interviews 1970-1984 42 2-3 General and Personal 1938-1992 1 1 Professional Correspondence 1959-1963 1 2 Professional Correspondence 1964-1967 1 3 Professional Correspondence 1968-1972 1 4 Professional Correspondence 1973-1977 1 5 Professional Correspondence 1978-1980 1 6 Professional Correspondence 1981-1987 42 4 Professional Correspondence 1952-1990 42 5 Professional Correspondence 1952-1990 42 6 Professional Correspondence 1952-1990 42 7 Professional Correspondence - Agents 1975-1986 42 8 Professional Correspondence - Editors and Publishers 1971-1983 42 9 Reader Mail 1960-1984 42 10 Reader Mail 1960-1984 42 11 Reader Mail 1960-1984 42 12 Reader Mail – “The Outrageous Cost of Facial Beauty” 1960-1963 42 13 Readers and Viewers/Franny Award 1960-1986 42 14 Rejections 1955-1987 Series II. Manuscripts 1937-1984

Contains drafts of articles and books by Toni Stabile. Most of the articles have a printed copy with the draft.

Sub-Series 1. Drafts of Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game 2 7-9 1st draft circa 1971-1972 2 10-12 2nd draft 1972 3 1-3 Revised 2nd Draft 1972 3 4-6 Second Revision of 2nd Draft 1973 4 1-5 3rd Revision Of 2nd Draft With Final Corrections 1973 4 6 Final Page Proof Galleys 1973 4 7 Page Proof Galleys Of Earlier Editions Annotated For Updated Edition 1979 5 1-4 1st Draft of Updated Edition 1979 5 5-7 2nd Draft Of Updated Edition 1979 6 1 2nd Draft Of Updated Edition - All Phases Of Index 1979 6 2 Author's 2nd Page Proof Galleys 1979 6 3 1st Corrections For 2nd Printing 1979 6 4 2nd Corrections For 2nd Printing 1979 6 5 Final Corrections For 2nd Printing 1979 Sub-Series 2. Drafts of Cosmetics: Trick Or Treat? 7 1-2 Incomplete 1st Draft circa 1959-1960 7 3 Incomplete Revision Of 1st Draft 1962 7 4 Outlines And Introductions With Various Possible Titles 1962-1966 7 5 Incomplete 2nd Draft Circa 1962 7 6-7 3rd Draft circa 1962-1963 8 1-2 Revision Of 3rd Draft circa 1963 8 3-4 2nd Revision Of 3rd Draft circa 1964 8 5-7 2nd Revision Of 3rd Draft With Final Corrections circa 1964-1965 9 1-3 Author's Page Proof Galleys For 1st Edition circa 1965-1966 9 4 Final Page Proof Galleys For 1st Edition 1966 10 1 Author's Page Proof Galleys For 2nd Edition 1967 10 2-3 Author's Page Proof Galleys Of Paper-Back Edition 1969 10 4 Author's 2nd Page Proof Galleys For Updated Edition 1972 43 2 Updated Notes for a new hardcover edition circa 1972 Sub-Series 3. Drafts of Everything You Want To Know About Cosmetics 11 3-7 Resource Material 1964, 1974-1983 11 8-9 Working Draft, Edited By Donald A. Davis circa 1984 12 1-2 Final Draft circa 1985 12 3-4 Final Draft With Corrections By The Author And Notes By The Typesetter 1984 12 5-6 Author's 2nd Page Proof Galleys 1984 13 1-2 Author's 3rd Page Proof Galleys 1984 13 3-5 Final Page Proof Galleys With All Phases Of Index 1984 13 6 Working Draft For Second Printing 1984 43 3-6 Copy of annotated typescript circa 1982 43 7 Index, annotated galley 1982 Sub-Series 4. Miscellaneous Manuscripts 2 1 Aerosols 77: Aerosols and the Consumer (Conference in Brussels) 1977 2 2 Around The Corner And Across The Street undated 43 1 Bonanza Waiting for the Brave (Speech before Cosmetic Career Women Inc.) April 10, 1968 2 3 Clerks Vs. Travel Agents 1962 2 4 The Constitution - A Living Document 1937 2 5 A Consumerist's View Of Cosmo Expo 5 1977 2 6 Cosmetics In Egypt: Catching Up To The Twentieth Century 1984 11 1 Critical Writing, Class Assignments, 4 Items 1941-1942 11 2 Eleanor Green - First Press Release undated 14 1 The High Cost Of Miracles 1959 14 2 Israel: Cosmetics From Dead Sea Clay To A Factory Madame Built 1984 14 3 Lucky Thirteen circa 1940'S 14 4 A New Approach To Mexico 1965 14 5 The Outrageous Cost Of Facial Beauty 1960 14 6 Reflections On Aerosol Exhibit 1977 14 7 Report On IFSCC/ICR Annual Conference On Cosmetic Regulations - International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists/International Cosmetic Regulations 1977 14 8 Harvest Years (Annotated galleys of magazine issue) 1970 43 8 Unto the Least of These (Bluebell), original typescript circa 1953 14 9 Women, Women, Women 1984 Series III. Research Files 1933-1990

Contains brochures, bulletins, catalogs, documents, newspaper and magazine clippings, papers, press releases, reports, reprints, and speeches. Much of this source material includes notes and chapter references by Toni Stabile.

15 1 Acne 1954-1980 15 1-5 Aerosol Sprays 1958-1985 43 9 Aerosol Sprays 1971-1976 43 10 Allergies 1965-1986 43 11 Aloe Vera 1966-1981 15 6-7 Antiperspirants 1951-1975 16 1 Antiperspirants 1976-1984 43 12 Antiperspirants/Deodorants 1970-1975 16 2-3 Avon 1958-1984 16 4 Bath 1956-1964 43 13 Carcinogens 1977-1979 43 14 Chemicals in Cosmetics 1975 16 5-6 Color Additives 1955-1968 17 1 Color Additives 1968-1985 43 15 Color Additives 1959-1985 17 2-5 Congressional Hearings 1951-1961 18 1-4 Congressional Hearings 1962-1972 19 1-5 Congressional Hearings 1973-1974 43 16 Congressional Hearings 1975 20 1-6 Congressional Hearings 1974-1978 21 1 Congressional Hearings 1979 43 17 Consumer Perceptions of Adverse Reactions to Cosmetic Products (Report to Food and Drug Administration) 1975 21 2-5 Consumer Protection 1951-1972 22 1-6 Consumer Protection 1972-1984 23 1-2 Cosmetic Contaminants 1953-1989 23 3-4 Cosmetic Dermatology 1953-1984 23 5-7 Cosmetic Injuries 1955-1982 43 18 Cosmetic Injuries 1975 24 1 Cosmetics For Children 1958-1976 24 2 Cosmetics For Men 1956-1985 44 1 Cosmetics, General Information 1975-1983 44 2 Cosmetics Industry 1958-1984 43 19 Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1982-1983 43 20 Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association – International Resource Manual 1982 24 3 Dental Care 1957-1983 24 4 Devices 1956-1975 24 5-6 Drugs In Cosmetics 1938-1981 24 7 Eyes 1933-1941, 1959-1985 44 3 Eyes 1972-1980 44 4-7 F-D-C Reports, “Pink Sheets” and “Rose Sheets” 1970, 1979-1983 44 8 Federal Consumer Services 1971 24 8 Federal Drug Administration, Administrative Policies 1955-1961 25 1-6 Federal Drug Administration, Administrative Policies 1962-1977 26 1-2 Federal Drug Administration, Administrative Policies 1978-1983 26 3-6 Federal Drug Administration, Enforcement And Compliance Reports 1963-1981 27 1 Federal Drug Administration, General Counsel - Peter Hutt 1971-1975 27 2 Federal Drug Administration, New Drug Approvals 1972-1976 27 3-7 Federal Drug Administration, Notices Of Judgement 1942-1966 27 8 Federal Trade Commission 1954-1959 28 1-6 Federal Trade Commission 1959-1981 29 1 Feminine Hygiene Sprays 1968-1975 44 9 Feminine Hygiene Sprays 1974 29 2 Fingernails 1951-1984 44 10 Fingernails 1988 44 11 Food and Drug Administration 1975-1977 44 12 Food and Drug Administration – Laws and Regulations 1985-1986 29 3 Good Grooming And Make-Up 1951-1985 29 4 Hair Care 1951-1984 44 13 Hair Care 1973-1989 29 5-6 Hair Dyes 1949-1983 44 14-15 Hair Dyes 1963-1979 29 7 Hair Straighteners 1967, 1976-1977 30 1-2 Hazards 1951-1981 30 3 Hexachlorophene 1955-1978 30 4 Hypoallergenic 1954-1979 45 1 Hypoallergenic 1961-1973 30 5-6 Ingredients 1959-1982 31 1 Ingredients 1982-1983 45 2 Ingredients 1977-1984 45 3 International Cosmetic Regulations (Conference sponsored by International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists) 1977 31 2 Lab Animals 1974-1986 45 4 Lab Animals 1971-1980 45 5 Legislation 1962-1973 31 3 Mail Fraud 1958-1964, 1971 45 6 Marketing – Advertisements 1961-1986 45 7 Marketing – Catalogs, Miscellaneous 1963-1970 31 4-8 Marketing Cosmetics And Toiletries 1956-1974 32 1-5 Marketing Cosmetics And Toiletries 1975-1985 45 8 Marketing – Fragrance (“Analysis of Competitive Fragrance Advertising,” report for Helena Rubenstein) 1975 45 9 Marketing – Makeup (“Analysis of Competitive Makeup Advertising,” report for Helena Rubenstein) 1975 45 10 Marketing – Treatment (“Analysis of Competitive Treatment Advertising,” report for Helena Rubenstein) 1975 45 11 Medical Literature undated 32 6 Mercury 1968-1972 45 12 Mercury 1970-1979 49 Miscellaneous research material undated 32 7 Moisturizers 1956-1984 45 13 Moisturizers 1989 33 1-2 Natural "Miracle" Skin Care Products 1955-1985 45 14 Notebooks 1959-1963 45 15 Notebooks 1959-1963 45 16 Notebooks 1959-1963 46 1-8 Notebooks 1964-1978 33 3-5 Notes 1956-1978 46 9 Notes 1963, 1983, undated 46 10 Notes and Interviews for Cosmetic: Trick or Treat? 1962-1963 33 6 Perfume 1950-1969 34 1 Perfume 1970-1984 46 11 Perfume 1958-1990 34 2 Placental Extracts 1956-1960 46 12 Placental Extracts 1975 46 13 Poisoning 1973 34 3 Royal Jelly 1953-1963 46 14 Royal Jelly 1959 34 4 Silicone 1956-1960 34 5-7 Society Of Cosmetic Chemists 1958-1983 35 1 Society Of Cosmetic Chemists Of Great Britain 1973-1974 46 15 Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Great Britain 1974 35 2 Sunlight And Skin Care 1959-1984 35 3-6 Toilet Goods Association, Inc. 1958-1963 36 1-4 Toilet Goods Association, Inc. 1963-1971 36 5 Toilet Goods Association, Inc. Et Al. V. Celebreeze Et Ano. 1964-1965 36 6-7 Toilet Goods Association, Inc. Et Al. V. Gardner And Goddard 1967-1968 36 8 Trade Rules And Regulations 1958-1963 37 1-3 Trade Rules And Regulations 1964-1984 46 16 Trade Shows 1971-1976 37 4-5 Trade Voluntary Regulations 1959-1984 37 6 Woman As Consumer (Conference On The Status Of Women) 1974-1975 38 1-2 Wrinkle Smoothers 1955-1984 46 17 Wrinkle Smoothers and Aging Skin 1958-1987 Series IV. Promotional Material 1966-1987

Contains biographical information, book catalogs, correspondence, memoranda, book reviews, newspaper articles, press kits, press releases, newsletters, and royalty statements.

39 1-3 Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game 1973-1986 47 1-4 Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game 1973-1979 47 5 Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game – Best Books Special (2 part) 1980 39 4-5 Cosmetics: Trick Or Treat? 1966-1969 40 1 Cosmetics: Trick Or Treat? 1970-1973 47 6-9 Cosmetics: Trick Or Treat? 1966-1972 40 2-3 Everything You Want To Know About Cosmetics 1983-1987 47 10-12 Everything You Want To Know About Cosmetics 1984-1987 47 13 Interviews and Appearances 1973-1984 Series V. Published Material 1953-1984

Contains magazine articles and annotated books by Toni Stabile.

41 Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game 1973 41, 47 Cosmetics: The Great American Skin Game 1979 41 Cosmetics: Trick Or Treat? 1966 41 Cosmetics: Trick Or Treat? 1967 41 Everything You Want To Know About Cosmetics 1984 41 1 Miscellaneous Articles 1953-1979 47 14 Miscellaneous Articles 1960-1984 47 15 Outrageous Cost of Facial Beauty, Reader’s Digest(U.S. edition, plus numerous translations) 1960-1961 Series VI. Stabile vs. Chesebrough-Pond’s Lawsuit Documents 1950-circa 1999

Contains legal documents and materials for deposition; summaries by Toni Stabile.

48 1-3 Materials for Deposition 1950-1962 48 4 Deposition of Plaintiff May 17, 1962 48 5 Deposition of Plaintiff May 18, 1962 48 6 Amended Complaint circa 1962 48 7 Summaries circa 1973, circa 1999 Series VII. Personal and Early Career Papers 1937-1984

Contains biographical information, advertising and publicity writings, and scrapbook.

48 8 Cranford High School (New York) 1937, undated 48 9 University of Kentucky/Columbia University 1940-1944 48 10 Early Years in Advertising – Scrapbook 1942-1950 48 11 Advertising and Publicity Writings 1945, undated 48 12 Advertising and Publicity Writings – Fashion 1946 48 13 Advertising and Publicity Writings – Fashion – Dorette Company 1946 48 14 Advertising and Publicity Writings – Industrial Retaining Ring Company circa 1950 48 15 Advertising and Publicity Writings – New York State Division of Housing 1953 48 16 Advertising and Publicity Writings – Travel 1961-1964 48 17 Press Passes and ID Cards 1963-1967 48 18 Biographical Information circa 1960s-1984 Series VIII. Audio/Visual Materials 1967-1985

Contains cassette and video tapes of interviews, appearances, speeches and presentations.

55 Audio Tapes 1967-1985 Jack McKinney, WCAV, Philadelphia (2 reels) Jan. 16, 1967 Face Value, NET – Stabile consultant to producer and staff Nov. 3, 1967 Ed Gallagher, WTOP, Washington D.C. circa 1967 For Women Only, WNBC TV (2 reels) May 1-2, 1969 AM New York, WABC May 28, 1970 JBT, ABC AM May 28, 1970 AM Show, ABC, San Francisco July 30, 1970 Dan Jaffe, Washington D.C. / Eleanor Green, WBZ Boston Dec. 1971 and Feb. 1973 Not For Women Only 1972 AM Stiller and Meara Feb. 26, 1973 Cosmetics, Cindy Singer, WTCR, Columbia U. April 1, 1973 Sherrye Henry Show May 18, 1973 Fran Lee, Frannie Award Sept. 3, 1973 Mike Douglas, Nader / Peter Menasian, Prof. Benjamin Shore Sept. 4, 1973 and Sept. 20, 1973 Not For Women Only, Eagleton Feb. 1974 Fran Lee re: fem. sprays March 28, 1974 Sun Coast Scene with Gib Guthrie, St. Petersburg, FL April 2, 1974 Jim Harris, Baton Rouge / Senator William Byrd of West Virginia Nov. 19, 1974 and no date National Star Interview, Jean S. Wilson 1974 Fran Lee Mention of Bk / Interphex Speech 1974 and no date Nancy McDonald, CBC TV (4 cassettes) Nov. 1975 CBC Take 30, Ernie / Elsa Russell Aug. 4, 1976 and Aug. 1976 Mendaluk, CBC (2 cassettes) Dec. 1976 CBC NY, F. Cevra / Al Kellerman 1976 and no date Gail Scott, WMAL, Washington D.C. May 16, 1977 Moss Hearings (9 cassettes) Jan. 23-Feb. 3, 1978 Rochester Seminar May 1, 1978 N.H. Speech May 22, 1978 Marc Hosenball, Fairchild / Neiss Report, NYCPS Jan. 16, 1979 and March 1, 1979 Eckhart Hearings July 19, 1979 Gary Null, WBA (2 cassettes) Oct. 10, 1979 Alan Moore, WKAT, Miami Nov. 12, 1979 Storer Cable Program, Fla. Nov. 1979 Kessler, Pa. Bulletin, Philadelphia Feb. 13, 1980 Karen Barrett, Columbia March 12, 1980 Henry Spiro re: Draize Test May 25, 28, 1980 Henry Spiro re: Draize Test / Donahue May 25, 1980 and August 21, 1980 Gary Null, Crossings, AM Seminar July 19, 1980 Ranson, Lori, re Donahue, Today July 23, 1980 Wendy Roth, Donahue July 26, 1980 Re: Donahue, etc. August 20, 1980 Wendy Roth re: Donahue / Kirk Adams August 20, 1980 and May 5, 1981 Donahue on Today, NBC TV Oct. 14, 1980 E. Edward Kavanaugh, President, Cosmetics, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association / John A Wenninger, Deputy Director, Division of Cosmetics Technology, FDA – Stabile interviewer Oct. 20, 1983 and Nov. 14. 1983 Kathy Novak, WABC Sept. 4, 1984 Kathy Novak Show, ABC Radio circa Sept. 1984 People Are Talking, Baltimore Oct. 23, 1984 Changing Times, interview with Mark Solheim, Washington D.C. Nov. 5, 1984 Joan Hamburg Show Nov. 7, 1984 At Your Service, St. Louis radio Nov. 20, 1984 Jack Warwick for Ron Ely, KXOK, St. Louis Nov. 20, 1984 St. Louis Post Dispatch Interview Nov. 20, 1984 Health Connection, WHYY, PA Nov. 25, 1984 Fresh Air, Terry Gross, WHYY, Philadelphia Nov. 29, 1984 Sally Jessy Raphael Show, NBC TV Dec. 26, 1984 Midday, Detroit Jan. 14, 1985 Kathy O’Brian for Dr. Sonya Friedhiem Show, WXYT, Detroit Feb. 4, 1985 Warren Pierce, WJR, Detroit, re: color adds. and toothpaste August 6, 1985 Joe Darlington, New York Post August 7, 1985 Beth McDonald, KLZ, Phoenix Nov. 12, 1985 Preston Westmoreland, KTAR, Phoenix Dec. 27, 1985 Brookdale / Catherine Hunter undated LSU Baton Rouge Speech (2 cassettes) undated Molly McGrath undated N.J. Panel undated Owen Spann, ABC Talk Radio undated Speech undated WAMR 20-Minute Digest undated 50-54 Miscellaneous cassette tapes undated Video Tapes 1976-1985 50 Marketplace, CBC, Toronto (Umatic) 27940 50 Take 30, CBC, Toronto (Umatic) 28204 50 A Woman’s View, Storer Cable TV, Sarasota, Florida (Umatic) Nov. 21, 1979 50 Midday Edition (Beta) Nov. 12-13, 1984 50 Sally Jessy Raphael (Beta) Dec. 26, 1984 50 CBS News (Beta) Feb. 19, 1985 50 Miscellaneous Video Tapes (Umatic) circa 1970s Additional Container Lists

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