This collection represents the "big wall" rock climbing research gathered by John Middendorf. Types of materials include historical accounts, climbing questionnaires (post-climb reports), hand drawn and printed route maps, articles, and photographs related to rock climbing routes in and around the Zion National Park area. Much of this material was used in preparation for publishing
John Middendorf is an American entrepreneur and former professional rock climber. Middendorf's contributions to climbing equipment innovation and his advocacy for safety standards have had a lasting impact on the sport. He was influential within the climbing community, particularly for his early efforts in developing and popularizing gear that enhanced safety and performance for climbers worldwide.
John Middendorf was born on November 18, 1959 in New York City to John William Middendorf, II, and the late Isabelle Paine Middendorf, and he unexpectedly died in his sleep on June 21, 2024 in Little Compton, RI, where he was visiting family. He grew up in Connecticut, the Netherlands, and Virginia. He attended Dartmouth College and Stanford University, graduating with a mechanical engineering degree, which he used to design and manufacture rock climbing equipment first with A5 Adventures Inc., and later with D4, both of which companies he founded.
His innovative portaledge designs, prompted by the failure of the portaledge he was using in 1985 when caught in a life-threatening storm on a climb of Half Dome in Yosemite, have revolutionized big wall climbing by allowing multi-day ascents in all weather. A recent fine-tuning of the design, which he made open-source, allowed use by peaceful protesters seeking to save the old growth of Tasmania's temperate rainforests.
John studied fabric architecture at the University of Sydney and received two masters degrees, one of Architectural Design from Harvard University and one of Teaching from the University of Tasmania. As a rock climber he excelled at big walls, making first ascents of many routes throughout the world, and was part of the first successful ascent of the Grade VII "The Grand Voyage" on Trango Tower in Pakistan, which is considered the greatest big wall in the Himalaya.
He taught high school mathematics, science, and robotics in the Tasmanian school system, and had worked as a river guide in the Grand Canyon for many years. He was a prolific writer, publishing hundreds of articles and several books on rock climbing, most recently a meticulously-researched two-volume history of its tools and techniques.
Source:
These materials are arranged according to the binder or folder they were originally housed in. Titles were also retained where possible.
No restrictions on access, except: not available through interlibrary loan.
It is the responsibility of the researcher to obtain any necessary copyright clearances.
Permission to publish material from the John Middendorf papers must be obtained from the
John Middendorf donated these materials to Special Collections in 2023.
Books that were donated with these materials were added to USU_ORA 003.
This series includes historical accounts, hand drawn and printed maps of climbing routes, photographs, pamphlets, articles, and research notes
Includes his article "The Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical"
South Fork of Taylor Creek, Main Kolob, Paria Point
A Brief History of Climbing in Zion, Climbing Management Plan, Selected Main Routes in Zion Main Canyon, route lists by type, slot canyons, Nation Park Service news releases, information guides
Climbing routes include Angels Landing area, The Organ, Temple of Sinawava area, Riff Raff, Coconut Corner, Cerberus area, Narrows area
Climbing routes include Forest Chimney, Bridge Mountain, Mountain of the Sun, Red Arch Mountain, Eye Shadow, Minotaur Tower, Big Kahuna, Emerald Star Majesticus, Moonlight Buttress, The Silmaril, Leaning Wall, Desert Shield, Bird Beak Spire, Angels Landing, Cosmic Trauma, Forbidden Wall, Cerberus Gendarme, Shune's Buttress, Three Marys, The Narrows
Climbing routes include Kinesava, Kolob Terrace, West Temple, Towers of the Virgin, Sentinel and Streaked Wall, The Radiator, Snake Crack, Great White Throne, Mount Spry, East Temple, Tunnel area, Excedrin route, Zion's Folly, Bridge Mountain to Watchman area, Crazy Quilt, Lovelace, Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion, Freezer Burn, The Fang Spire, The 10th Division, Wages of Sin, Lost in Transit, Sands of Time