Doctor George W. Woods was born in Massachusetts August 24, 1838. After receiving his medical education, graduating from the University of Virginia on July 4, 1861, he entered the U. S. Navy as an Assistant Surgeon in December of that year. Achieving the rank of Surgeon in 1869 and serving for a time on the Lackawanna and the Jamestown (a cruise among the Marshall Islands in 1870), Woods was ordered to the U.S.S. Juniata in October 1882 on a surveying mission to the Western Pacific.
The Juniata, named for a Pennsylvania river, was a steam screw sloop-of-war which was built for duty during the Civil War and constructed to take advantage of the wind, as a three-masted sloop, and also equipped as a steamer, with a screw propeller. Launched at the Philadelphia Navy Yard in March 1862 the Juniata was commissioned there in December of that year. It had a draft of 151 3-1/2", 1240 tons, a speed of 9 knots and a complement of 160 men. Its armament was originally 11 guns, ranging from a 100-pounder parrott rifle to four 24-pounder howitzers. In 1864 it was rebuilt at 828 tons carrying 14 guns, although this was reduced to six in 1866. During the war the Juniata served as a blockade vessel on the Atlantic Coast. Subsequently, it cruised the Brazilian coast protecting American citizens and interests, spent three years in European waters, and in 1873 assisted in the search for survivors of the Polaris arctic expedition. Decommissioned in 1876, it was not returned to duty until assigned to the Far East survey in 1882, when Surgeon Woods joined the staff.
With Commander (and later Admiral) George Dewey in command, the Juniata left New York in October 1882 headed for Europe. Dewey, in his autobiography, called the Juniata "a relic of a past epoch of naval warfare...she was as out of date as the stage-coach. Her round bottom made her roll heavily with even a slight swell ..." 11 (p. 154) Dewey's disappointment in his command was mitigated by an illness that took him off the ship at Malta. Undoubtedly, Surgeon Woods diagnosed and treated the future Admiral, but, unfortunately, the doctor's extant journal begins in Singapore in September 1883.
From Singapore the Juniata assisted in rescue operations following the eruption of Krakatoa, and the Doctor toured the highlands of Batavia, before being ordered to Canton. Surgeon Woods' journal is a detailed and perceptive account of his experiences in the Far East. His descriptions of persons, places, scenes, costumes, architecture and customs reveal a questioning spirit and an inquiring mind. He is, perhaps, the epitome of the American tourist: with a guide and possibly an interpreter, Woods set out to see all the sights, visit all the curio shops and exclaim at the curious customs of the natives. At the height of anti-foreign feeling in China, he walked unaccompanied through the city streets savoring the sights, sounds and smells of the Orient. As a doctor Woods was often called upon to treat those in need and so had access to the houses and palaces of the humble and the mighty, the poor and the rich. His duties on board ship seldom took up enough time, so to fill the long hours the doctor wrote letters and journals. Among the journal entries are envelopes addressed to Robert Ernest Doyle of San Francisco who apparently routed the letters and journals to family and friends. The letters are unfortunately lost, as are the journals for the first half of this cruise.
After leaving Canton the Juniata was ordered to Korea, where it engaged in survey work. Woods took this opportunity to travel to Seoul, which had just been opened to foreigners and was relatively untouched by western influences. Moving on to Japan, he spent three days traveling inland from Nagasaki to visit rural communities and pottery centers. The Sino-French war excitement of 1884 called the Juniata to Ningpo to protect American interests there. Later it visited Foochow, subsequent to the French attack on that city. In July of 1885 the Juniata is ordered home via Zanzibar, Madagascar and the east coast of Africa. In Zanzibar and Madagascar Captain Harrington attempted to settle disputes between American citizens and the local authorities. At this point Doctor Woods' journal ends, although the Juniata returned safely to New York December 10, 1885. From 1886 to 1889 she was again in the Pacific and upon her return was decommissioned. The Juniata was sold at the Portsmouth Navy Yard March 1891 to Herbert H. Ives, but the name was resurrected during both the first and second world wars for two different ships.
Surgeon Woods was promoted to Medical Inspector in September 1888 and in 1895 he was promoted to the rank of Medical Director. In 1898 he was stationed at the New York Naval Hospital and his service record was fourteen years at sea, twenty years of shore duty, and two years unemployed.
Doctor Woods' papers are essentially "journals" describing his activities and the passing scenes of his travels in the Far East (Korea, China, and Japan). Nearly every item was written over the space of several days, a period related to the frequency of mail delivery and pickup that was available at that time and in that region of the world. There are lacunae in the journal sequence for reasons that aren't entirely clear. The assumption is that his journals once covered the 1882-1883 part of this cruise, but at this point such documents have yet to surface. There are some indications that these journal letters were once accompanied by more personal letters having to do with family and friends. The spelling of certain geographical place names (and other nouns) in the journal annotations follows Woods' rendition.
The journals have been arranged and annotated in chronological order except for an undated journal fragment which is probably from 1886, and an undated printed concert program which may date from 1883 or 1886.
This collection is open and available for research use.
Copyright restrictions apply.
[Item description]
George W. Woods Journals, 1883-1886 (Cage 105)
Manuscripts, Archives, and Special Collections, Washington State University Libraries, Pullman, WA.
The journals and other papers of George W. Woods were purchased by the Washington State University Library in May of 1973 from WSU alumnus David Stidolph, who had previously purchased them in batches from two bookstores in California.
Terry Abraham processed the collection during the summer of 1973.
In 2022, in response to evolving standards regarding the language used to describe individuals and communities with disabilities, Gayle O’Hara revised this finding aid.
Swartout, Robert R., Bohm, Fred C. "An American Naval Officer in 19th Century Korea: The Journal of George W. Woods." Journal of Social Sciences and Humanities 52 (December 1980): 18-30
Woods, George W., Swartout, Robert R., Bohm, Fred C. (1984). Naval surgeon in Yi Korea : the journal of George W. Woods. Berkeley, Calif : Institute of East Asian Studies, University of California-Berkeley, Center for Korean Studies
"An American Naval Officer in 19th century Korea: The Journal of George W. Woods" Manuscript, 1980 October 24
This collection is indexed under the following headings in the online catalog. Researchers desiring materials about related topics, persons, or places should search the catalog using these headings.
2 leaves initialed G.W.W.
A thank-you note in five quatrains.
4 leaves. Entries on September 2, 4, 6. Description of Singapore, sails to Straits of Bonca where they receive reports of the effects of the eruption of Krakatoa and assist a ship off of shoals.
8 leaves and env. addressed to R. E. Doyle, San Francisco. Entries on September 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14. Description of Batavia ( now Jakarta), patrol of the Straits of Sunda to redirect traffic after the volcanic eruption examining the destruction. Describes eruption and visit to Krakatoa and return to Batavia.
22 leaves and env. addressed to R. E. Doyle. Entries on September 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 24. Comes ashore on five day leave, describes hotels, social life and customs of Batavia, the Zoological gardens, where he viewed the orangoutangs, and an evening of music. Travel to Bintenzorf in the interior six miles from Mt. Sallak. Description of Javanese architecture and life. Visited the botanical gardens to gather ferns, met Mrs. Wilson of Wilson's California Circus. Visited an asylum. Describes Javanese coffee-making. Then en route to Singapore.
12 leaves and env. addressed to R. E. Doyle. Entries on September 25, 26, 30, October 3. At sea, en route to Hong Kong in response to Admiral Crosby's orders. Expresses no concern for the Juniata's ability to weather the typhoon season. A typhoon arrives and then abates.
26 leaves. Entries on October 4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 21, and 25. En route to Hong Kong, Describes Hong Kong harbor. Called on Mr. Mosby, American Consul, arousing him from his nap and withdrew. Leaves for Canton at 6 a.m. and arrives just before sunset. Recounts recent anti-foreign agitations which filled the harbor with western gun-boats, including the Juniata. Describes the Shawneen or foreign concessions and the "Floating City" of junks. Took supper with Consul Seymour and
20 leaves. Entries on October 28, 30, November 1, 3, 4, 6, 9. Reports that newspaper accounts of the late eruption were greatly exaggerated. Again visited missionary hospital. Describes missionary compound. Is assured that peace between France and China is at hand which will relieve some of the pressure on the foreigners in Canton. Visited the Hongnas (former merchant princes of the tea trade) with the Captain and others. Visited Buddhist temple at Honam and the Fah-Tee Gardens. Went upriver with Mr. Lit Ming Cook and Dr. Kerr on a medical expedition.
24 leaves. Entries on November 11, 12, 14, 17, 19, 20, 25. Went into Canton for mass in a sedan chair and describes the quarters of the city. Makes a medical call with Dr. Kerr on a mandarin's daughter. More description of noted Cantonese buildings. Made a second visit with Dr. Kerr to the mandarin's daughter. Then he was taken to visit the prison and, following that, to make another medical call to a patient in a humbler walk of life than the mandarin. Visited a pawnbroker's establishment, silk weavers quarter, temples, a fortune-teller, the executioner, the Examination Hall. A third visit to the mandarin's daughter was preceeded by a walk through the city with Dr. Kerr as guide.
12 leaves. Entries on November 26, 29, 30, December 4, 5, 6, 8. Visited shops in Canton, also temples, another examination hall and a courtroom. Regatta among the occidental ships, the Juniata winning three of the principal prizes. Performed an operation on a rich merchant and was paid a chest of tea. Toured some street industries adjacent to the hospital, after assisting Dr. Kerr in some operations. Received an unofficial announcement that war with France was imminent and that all foreigners would, on that occasion, be forced to leave Canton. Describes northern Chinese troops arriving to defend the city. City is in some excitement and the men of the Juniata are looking forward to their relief by the Essex. Visited some patients in the city and a tea-packing ææhong.'' The earlier announcement concerning the imminence of war was declared a forgery and tempers calmed.
14 leaves. Entries on December 12, 14, 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 25. General Pong's recent pronouncements have quieted the city and, for first time, walks to Dr. Kerr's without trouble. However, rumors still abound. Discusses his notes for Chinese Materia Medica. Visits a drug manufacturer, describes processes, method of printing labels. Visited the kitchen of a restaurant. Describes method of footbinding, received a model of such a foot from Dr. Kerr. Reports Dr. Kerr's lecture on the religions of China. The Essex arrives and the Juniata leaves for Hong Kong. Describes Hong Kong and dinner at the Victoria. Sontay captured by the French. Christmas Day Admiral Davis orders the Juniata by telegraph to Shanghai without delay.
30 leaves. and env. addressed to R. E. Doyle. Entries on January 23, 24, 29, February 1, 6, 11, 12, 17, 18. Visits, with Mr. Drew, Mrs. Koe, widow of the Harvard Professor of Chinese. Mr. Drew relates the family history. Ship is caulked as is Wood's cabin, which is also remodeled at his expense. Chinese New Year's celebrations and preparations described. Witness at Lieut. Jewett's court-martial. Makes a "call" on St. Johns Episcopal College. Attends Mr. Rush's infected jaw. Went with the Captain to an official dinner given by Mr. Cheshire, Acting-Consul-General. Dinner with Mr. Ned Rice and others on the following day. Several days later attended a dinner at the Haskells. Dinner with the Glovers. Discusses etiquette and society in the Far East among the "foreigners". Walked in old part of Shanghai when weather cleared. Mr. Jewett's case is reconsidered, acquitted again, over the disapproval of Admiral, who orders Mr. Jewett to Yokahoma to await passage. Ordered to Nagasaki, Japan, and ship arrives February 18. They are to go on to Corea to relieve the Enterprise.
8 leaves. Entries on March 9, 11, 16, 21. Hears report of Seoul and travel to and from. Mrs. Foote and Mrs. Mohlendorff are the only two European ladies in Seoul and etiquette has prevented them meeting one another in all the time they have been there. With Captain, inspects Corean shore batteries. Took a walk through the town of Chimulpo, which the Coreans call Inchnon after a village five miles inland.
2 leaves. Entry on March 25. Took a walk out to the Governor's house. Discussion of Corean animal trapping, initiated by pelts hanging on the governor's wall, tributes from the villagers. Joining the second party from the ship to Seoul consisting of Lieut. Leutze, Lieut. Mitchell, Mr. Mattice, who is an engineer and a photographer.
36 leaves. Entried on March 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, April 13, 17, 18. Describes particulars of travel in Cor6a as exemplified by his journey to Seoul. Describes residence of the American minister in Seoul. Met U. S. Minister Foote (Foote, Lucius Harwood, 1826-1913) and his wife, refers again to the fact that because of etiquette, neither of the two European ladies in Seoul have met. Describes view of city from minister's residence. Describes events of Christian martyrdom at the Western Gate 1791-1866. Tours the city with the other officers with Mr. Scudder as guide. Illustrates Corean flag (29). Visits the old palace. Goes on a photographic expedition with Mr. Mattice. Visits Japanese charge d'affairs and the Japanese medical officer. Gen. Foote discourses on the Corean language. Returns to the Juniata, which sails to Fernande Island as part of the surveying mission.
36 leaves. Entries on April 20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 28, May 16. Returned to Seoul to stay at the U. S. Legation on the hill called Chong-dong which the Footes' were having redecorated. Mrs. Foote tells of her audience with the Queen. Mr, Foote describes the royal politics of Cho-sen. Collected material for the "Museum of Hygiene" and interviewed a Corean physician. Went out to observe a royal procession but was mostly observed by the curious Coreans. Visit only Buddhist temple in Seoul. Met Sir Harry Parkes and the English party who had just arrived. Discussed Corean dress and ornament with General and Mrs. Foote. Also pearls. Returned to the Juniata, which was still surveying off Fernande Island. The ship returns to Chimulpo on the 16th of May for supplies before sailing for Nagasaki.
37 leaves. Entries on May 19, 25, 28, 29, 30, 31, June 1, 9, 14. The Juniata, having finished its surveying of Fernande Island sails to replenish its stores at Nagasaki. Takes a three-day journey through the Japanese countryside with an interpreter. Visits Togitso, Kawatana, Arita, (during voyage was given a "Composition" on the history and customs of Nagasaki by Mr. Iishino the interpretor, to correct, as he was desirous of improving his English) (visits a pottery factory in Arita) Takewo, (where he partakes of the baths) Oreshino, Sonoji, (with a drawing of a Torii), and return by steamer to Togitso and then to Nagasaki. The ship sails to Shanghai where they learn of a contretemps between the officers of the Enterprise and the editor of the North China Herald.
10 leaves. with env. addressed to R. E. Doyle. Entries on June 17, 20, 24, 27, 30. The Admiral arrives one day early and orders the disposition of ships; the Juniata and the Enterprise are to return to Nagasaki, to be joined by the Trenton. Met with the Admiral and, later, with Consul J. Russell Young. Arrived in Nagasaki.
15 leaves. Entries on July 13, 14, 18, 19, 20. He notes that his stay in Nagasaki consisted of "a stop at the club, a ride in a ærick-shah', a visit to the curio shops or a call on the Sullivans and Joneses." Attended a "high-class Japanese feast" in company with the Admiral. On leaving port the Essex was given a rousing send-off as it was returning to the States and the others headed for the Inland Sea of Japan and Kobi. Due to the rain they leave Kobi almost immediately for Yokohama.
20 leaves. Entries on July 24, 26, 28, August 3, 6, 10, 17, 18. Arrive in Yokohama, lunch with the Rushes, and describes the city. Attended the theater, Recounts a meeting with Dr. Jakey Durgan, in charge of U. S. Naval Hospital in Yokohama. Attempts return to ship in storm but is forced to stop on the Trenton where, the following morning, he learns that he is to be on the Ring court-martial panel and that as soon as the court martial in concluded the Juniata sails for Shanghai. In light of this he takes afternoon to go to Tokio on the train. The court martial finally ends, the Doctor serves on a Board of Survey at the hospital and has dinner with Dr. and Mrs. Eldridge, managed to Work in a visit to the Daibutzu before the Juniata left for Shanghai. Shanghai is in the midst of the French-Chinese excitement. Receives account of the attack on Keelung. Orders received to sail to Ningpo, south of Shanghai.
Entries on August 24, 26, 28, 31. The trip to Ningpo was the result of a letter from Edwin Stevens, U. S. Consul, Ningpo, to Minister Young which was Forwarded to the Admiral and from the Admiral to Captain Harrington which complained at the lack of protection the U. S. Navy was giving the Americans at Ningpo. After arriving dined at the Stevens' with Mr. Belden and Dr. Bochet, the missionary doctor, Mr. Cooper, the English Consul, where they discussed the Chinese Question. Received reports of the bombardment of Foochow and the negotiations in Peking. Received amusing letter from Mr. Iishima of Nagasaki. Captain Harrington has compromised the Juniata's position in Ningpo.
10 leaves. Entries on September 6. Discussion of the war news over dinner where the Chinese defeat is analyzed. It is revealed that some of the Chinese officers were educated in America and showed the most sense. Mr. A. Tong, one of these students, and now interpreter to the Consul at Ningpo, gave an account of his recall from Yale University. Visits Dr. Bachet's clinic and touts Ningpo, finding no evidence of "anti-foreign" feeling. Several rumors afloat about new orders for the Juniata.
8 leaves. Entries on September 21, 23, 24, 25, 28, October 2. Has lunch with opium merchant and visits store-rooms and testing labs. The Juniata is ordered to Shanghai and the Captain sets off in the face of a probable typhoon. Describes case of cholera on board and treatment. Arrives in Shanghai safely. Is to receive some of the Trenton's stores as it is going up-river and the Juniata will sail for Nagasaki with the flag-ship.
6 leaves. Entries on October 5, 12, 16. Dinner-party rumors of huge American loans to China, on the condition of peace with France. Meets and dines with George T. Browley, Bohemian Club member and now consul at Tientsin. The Juniata sails for Nagasaki to close the naval store house presumably to stay until the end of November.
17 leaves. Entries on October 20, 26, November 2, 8. History of the Fatagami dry-dock. General (the American Consul) and Mrs. Jones are characterized. A discourse on the cooking of eels and other Japanese dishes. With General Jones and Captain Harrington to visit the Takasima Coal mines. Followed by a round of dinner parties and entertainments.
9 leaves. Entries on January 23. Went upstream to the city of Foochow, passing the arsenal under repair, describing in detail aspects of the city and foreign society, especially the tea trade.
3 leaves. Describes fire that occurred during his stay in Foochow. [apparently part of a longer personal letter, pages numbered 10-12]
8 leaves. Entries on April 12, 15. Addressed to R. Ernest Doyle, San Francisco. "Journal letter for the family to read." Describes descent from the anchorage near Foochow. The Admiral transferred his flag to the Juniata en route to Shanghai. Arrive in Shanghai, where he assumes they will stay until they come home. Signed: G. W. Woods.
27 leaves. with env. addressed to R. E. Doyle. Entries on August 27, September 1, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. Left Nagasaki July 1 with "home orders" via Zanzibar, Madagascar, and the east coast of Africa. Description of Zanzibar and its port. The German fleet is in the harbor forcing the Sultan to sign treaties and provide commercial advantages. The officers of the Juniata, with Consul Cheney, call on the Sultan and then ride the Sultan's horses to the interior. Reports a British gun-boat captured, and how, with fifty enslaved persons on the coast, the slave trade continuing in spite of the efforts of Sir John Kirk, the English Consul to suppress it. (Kirk, Sir John, 1832-1922) Called on Dr. Gregory of the French Hospital. Had dinner with the Cheneys. Sailed for Johanna of the Comoro Islands, where he meets Dr. B. F. Wilson, later of the U. S. Navy, who is running a sugar cane plantation in spite of obstacles placed in his way by the Sultan. The Juniata is to intervene with the Sultan in his behalf. Captain Harrington and four officers, including Doctor Woods, call on the Sultan who, of course, gave a slightly different version of his troubles with the Doctor. Unfortunately, the Captain of the Juniata does not have the power to decide the case on the spot and can only collect evidence which will be used to determine the action taken by the United States and, perhaps a year later, a gun-boat will arrive with the verdict. One of the Sultan's enslaved persons swam to the ship and asked asylum, which will probably not be given. The Captain renders his verdict, or advisory opinion, on Dr. Wilson's case and the ship departs for Pomoni, 25 miles away, where Mr. Sunlay has a sugar plantation. Mr. Sunlay's illness is treated by the doctor. Sails for Mayotte Island where the Captain again interviews individuals regarding Dr. Wilson's case. September 12 the ship sails for Majunga.
6 leaves. Entries on September 13, 21, 22. Encounter anti-French agitation, but, as there are no Americans to protect, sets sail for Mozambique. In Mozambique were called upon to assist the Boston firm of Ropes and Co. whose goods were confiscated for lack of a customs permit, considered smuggling. Describes the island of Mozambique, the market and the "cathedral."
2 leaves.
2 leaves. printed.
ADDITION 17 May 1974
Letter, September 19, 1884, Malta, to George W. Woods, Yokohama.
26 leaves. with envelope.
Describes life in Malta since Woods' departure.