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<ead><eadheader langencoding="iso639-2b" scriptencoding="iso15924" relatedencoding="dc" repositoryencoding="iso15511" countryencoding="iso3166-1" dateencoding="iso8601" id="a0"><eadid countrycode="us" mainagencycode="wauar" encodinganalog="identifier" url="http://archiveswest.orbiscascade.org/ark:/80444/xv01248" identifier="80444/xv01248">WAUPayneBlanchePHColl249.xml</eadid><filedesc><titlestmt><titleproper>Preliminary Guide to the Blanche Payne History of Costume Illustration Collection <date encodinganalog="date" era="ce">approximately 1965</date></titleproper><titleproper type="filing" altrender="nodisplay">Payne (Blanche) History of Costume Illustration Collection</titleproper></titlestmt><publicationstmt><publisher encodinganalog="publisher">Special Collections, University of Washington Libraries</publisher><date normal="2008" encodinganalog="date">©2008 (Last modified: 2/26/2021)</date><address><addressline>Seattle, WA 98195</addressline></address></publicationstmt></filedesc><profiledesc><langusage>Finding aid written in 
		  <language langcode="eng" encodinganalog="language" scriptcode="latn">English</language>.</langusage><descrules>Finding aid based on DACS (<title render="italic" linktype="simple">Describing Archives: A Content Standard</title>).</descrules></profiledesc></eadheader><archdesc level="collection" type="inventory" relatedencoding="marc21" id="recon-inmagic"><did><repository><corpname>University of Washington Libraries, Special Collections</corpname></repository><unitid countrycode="us" repositorycode="wauar">PH0249</unitid><origination><persname encodinganalog="100" source="lcnaf" role="collector" altrender="sync">Payne, Blanche, 1897-1972</persname></origination><unittitle encodinganalog="245$a" type="collection">Blanche Payne
		  "History of Costume" illustration collection</unittitle><unitdate type="inclusive" encodinganalog="245$f" normal="1965" certainty="approximate" era="ce" calendar="gregorian">approximately 1965</unitdate><langmaterial>Collection materials are in 
		<language langcode="eng" scriptcode="latn" encodinganalog="546">English</language>.</langmaterial><abstract encodinganalog="5203_$a">Illustrations
		  for Blanche Payne's 1965 book 
		  History of Costume</abstract></did><bioghist encodinganalog="5450_" id="ARN2271101" altrender="sync"><p>Blanche Payne was born in 1897 in Thayer, Kansas. She earned a
		  bachelor's degree in home economics from Kansas State Teacher's College in 1916
		  and a master of arts degree in clothing from Columbia University in 1924. Payne
		  taught high school English and home economics classes in Kiowa, Kansas, and
		  Lewiston, Idaho, before servng as a student nurse at Camp Lewis, Washington in
		  1918. In 1919 she joined the faculty at Arizona State Teachers College, where
		  she taught classes in textiles and clothing. From 1924 to 1926 Payne taught
		  clothing classes at high schools in New York City, studied draping with French
		  designer Madame Geo, and started her own design business. </p><p>Payne joined the University of Washington faculty in 1927, where she
		  taught costume and apparel design in the School of Home Economics. In 1929 she
		  took a leave of absence to study flat pattern at the Mitchell School of Design
		  in New York City, then extended her leave until 1930 to travel through Central
		  Europe and the Balkans surveying folk costume in Czechoslovakia, Hungary,
		  Rumania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Greece, Albania, and Yugoslavia. Payne resumed her
		  duties at the University of Washington in 1931 but returned to Yugoslavia in
		  1936 to 1937 for additional study. Her research focused on the regions of South
		  Serbia (Macedonia), Croatia, Bosnia, North Serbia, and Dalmatia. In addition to
		  exploring museum collections, Payne visited remote villages, markets, and
		  festivals throughout the country to study and photograph peasant costumes. She
		  also augmented her studies by drafting patterns from the clothing she
		  encountered.</p><p>Payne's Yugoslav research failed to result in a full-length
		  publication due to the prohibitive costs of publishing and the destruction of
		  some of her color plates during World War II. However, in 1965 Payne published
		  a textbook entitled 
		<title render="italic" linktype="simple">History of Costume</title>,
		which described the evolution of fashion from 3000 B.C. to 1900. The book
		contained detailed descriptions of historical and cultural fashions together
		with renditions of small-scale garment patterns that she meticulously drafted
		from various museum collections. In researching her book, Payne spent two years
		avidly collecting illustrations. Considered a foremost resource in the study of
		costume history, the text reflected her teaching philosophy that the study of
		original artifacts is of essential importance in understanding good design.</p><p> In addition to her intensive research on clothing and historic
		  costume, Payne supervised work on the Textile and Costume Study Collection
		  housed in the University of Washington School of Home Economics. As part of her
		  studies of non-Western folk dress and embroidery technique, she collected
		  original ethnic costumes along with textile and embroidery examples. She used
		  her Balkan research as a valuable source for studying ethnic dress in its
		  original context and to provide her students with primary source material for
		  the study of modern costume construction and fine craftsmanship. </p><p>During the 1960s Payne consulted for the Brooklyn Museum, work that
		  included a research trip to Europe to find costumes from the House of Worth for
		  an exhibition. Payne retired from the University of Washington in 1966 and died
		  in 1972. </p></bioghist><scopecontent encodinganalog="5202_" id="a3"><p>Collection includes illustrations for Blanche Payne's book 
		<title render="italic" linktype="simple">History of Costume</title>
		(1965) along with throwaways (illustrations considered but not used). Boxes are
		arranged in chronological order from ancient times to the 19th century.</p></scopecontent><accessrestrict encodinganalog="506" id="a14"><p><emph altrender="color:red" render="bolditalic"> Closed until processed. </emph></p><p><extref href="https://uw.aeon.atlas-sys.com/logon/?Action=10&amp;Form=31&amp;Value=https://archiveswest.orbiscascade.org/ark:80444/xv01248/xml" role="text/html" actuate="onrequest" show="new" id="aeon">Request at UW</extref></p></accessrestrict><userestrict encodinganalog="540" id="a15"><p>Restrictions may exist on reproduction, quotation, or publication.
		  Contact Special Collections, University of Washington Libraries for
		  details.</p></userestrict><otherfindaid><p><extref actuate="onrequest" show="new" href=""/></p></otherfindaid><controlaccess><subject source="uwsc">Visual Materials Collections (University of Washington)</subject><persname role="subject" encodinganalog="600">Payne, Blanche, 1897-1972--Archives</persname><subject encodinganalog="650">Costume--History--Sources</subject><subject encodinganalog="650">Clothing and dress--History--Sources</subject><subject encodinganalog="650">Costume--Drawings</subject><subject encodinganalog="650">Costume--Photographs</subject><genreform source="lcsh" encodinganalog="655" altrender="nodisplay">Photographs</genreform><subject source="archiveswest" altrender="nodisplay">Fashion</subject></controlaccess></archdesc></ead>

